No Fail Smoked Bird

With Thanksgiving a couple days away, it’s time to start the brine and select the wines for your Thanksgiving table. If you love to host and cook, the planning and anticipation of preparing a grand meal, and sharing your table with friend and family is all part of the experience. Whether you plan to smoke, spatchcock or stay true to the classic oven roasted bird, your Thanksgiving meal with shine with some pregame planning. Having tried it all, one of our favorite preparation remains the ‘No-Fail Smoked Bird’. This is a riff off of James Bird award-winning Chef John Currence’s recipe with a few tweaks of our own. It will not dissappoint!

WINE SELECTION

With so many go-to Thanksgiving side dishes it can be hard to select the right wines. The Turkey is the star, if you are having trouble narrowing down which wines to serve (there is not rule that says you can’t take the shotgun approach and simply cover your bets!) focus on wines that highlight the flavors of the main course. We like fresh, full flavored white wines, and light to moderate bodied reds, like Grenache Blanc, Chardonnay, even Rosé certainly, along with Grenache, lighter Syrahs and Pinot Noirs. Dessert is another great opportunity to get creative if you have a wine you really want to share that may not slot right into with dinner. A little sweetness is a great way to offset the tannins and structure of full bodied reds.

Whats going to be on your table this Thanksgiving? We’d love to see how everyone is celebrating. Tag us in your posts and share your favorites.

A Night Drinking Wine with Chef Hannah MacDonald

We sat down with our good friend and chef, Hannah MacDonald. She is the founder of Foodscape here in Walla Walla and a major influencer of the food scene here over the past decade. We sat around the fire pit with a bottle of wine, some cheese and snacks while she shared her story with us.

Photo Credits to Foodscape.

Photo Credits to Foodscape.

REVELRY: Okay Hannah, to give some context, anyone thats been to Walla Walla has likely eaten your food, or food directly influenced by you without perhaps knowing it.  You opened Brasserie Four restaurant on main street in September of 2008.  Much more recently however you opened Foodscape Walla Walla.  Its brand new and growing a following quickly, but for those that aren’t yet familiar, tell us a little bit about it.

HANNAH: Foodscape is an online grocer in Walla Walla. So you can pop in through the alley off of Colville Street. We’re a little seafood speak easy back there. But you can find all of our offering online at foodscapeww.com

R: Where did the inspiration for Foodscape come from?

H: Foodscape, the term, means you know, where you acquire food, talk about food, grab meaning from food, it’s essentially what surrounds you. Being in Walla Walla I just want to share and highlight the bounty that is here. From food, to all the agriculture offerings really: produce, meat, seafood being four hours away and on the coast. 

R: And you carry things not only from here but from all over the place. So let's frame this a little bit. You are a Walla Walla native. I’ve been in Walla Walla since 1999 and the food scene was pretty sparse then.  How did you first get into food? What first sparked this interest that has now turned into Foodscape - that was for you food and cooking; and where did you find that inspiration early on?

H: My first job, as a 14 year old, was picking strawberries for Klickers farms here; on my hands and knees with these little wooden crate wheelbarrow thingys that you rolled up and down the rows. You’ll recognize the pickers each season because their hands are stained purple from the berries. But I worked a whole summer out there and saved enough money to buy my first bike actually. It was a Specialized, and a real beauty. I really miss it. 

So anyways, literally my hands have been in the dirt here since I was 14, and through all of my work as a teenager, I saved enough money to follow my dream. I think I read French Vogue in high school. Walla Walla was not the place it is now. There wasn’t much here - except for wheat fields and cowboys! So, I saved enough money to pay for my first year of college. I enrolled in the University of Paris, and I got on a plane at 18 years old and didn’t look back. For a year, I couldn’t afford to fly home. My family couldn’t afford to come see me, and I really had a coming of age in Paris. 

I sorta went to school the first semester, and then mostly I just played, but I became very interested in food. I lived with a few French families while I was there, one of which was Madam Poupon, an heir to the great Poupon mustard family. She schooled me in all things French culture from a very formal level. Then I lived with Jacque and Jaqueline, who I am actually still in touch with. I actually saw Jaqueline in March as I flew to Paris for 24 hours before our country was locked down and I flew straight back home. Within five years, in 2008, two of her daughters and myself, had opened restaurants. She just evokes this sort of comfortable, generous ease with her cuisine. She taught me virtually everything I know. Jacque, my French father, would go get wine, and cheese, and bread everyday; and Jacqueline would prepare the vinaigrette, and the meat, and whatever and every night was three hours sitting around the table. 

R: That’s sweet! 

H: What was the question?

R: Doesn’t matter. [laugter…] It was where your inspiration came from. 

H: So after that experience, I dropped out of college in France, came back to America, and enrolled in the Cordon Bleu Program in Portland - went through that and then just sort of bounced around trying to hone my skills in the French culinary arts. I decided to bring what I know of some great dishes and technique to my hometown, and sort of opened this casual comfortable easy French Brasserie on main street. 

R: Suffice to say, it gelled in France. Your inspiration for food happened there. 

H: Because everything just tasted so good! What that taught me was that when you source great things, when you find great things, when you spend the time to make extra trips to the baker, to the butcher, to the fish monger, to the cheese shop, you end up with a plethora of gorgeous ingredients. And what Walla Walla brings to the table at this point are exactly those things. 

R: But this isn’t the only time that you’ve left and come back to Walla Walla. So the first time you go off to France, discover food, return to Walla Walla where you open what is now truly a staple restaurant in Brasserie Four, and one that was really critical to the growth of a now incredible food scene here in town. After a really successful run there and at the peak of the restaurants success, you sell it and move to Brooklyn.  

H: Needed to shake things up a little bit!

R: Yeah! So its kinda like you are traveling abroad to France all over again. What happened in Brooklyn? What did you see there that is now represented in Foodscape? 

H: I mean essentially I am just a gatherer really - you know. Wherever you go. It wasn’t as simple as going to culinary school and coming back with this great knowledge about French food. It was years and years of traveling, and testing, and trying, and learning, and being patient, and just kind of taking in all of those experiences - and then being in a position where I felt like I had a little bit of a voice and could share some of the things that I was fortunate enough to have experienced. 

Heading to Brooklyn, I wanted to spend some time with my son and show him more of the country, and New York is the melting pot of America. So while there I did the same thing I do anywhere, which is just find, source, and follow anything food. So I became a pretty paralyzed by my desire to learn more about Middle Eastern cuisines, about Chinese food - especially those two. Certainly Italian, certainly Japanese, certainly Korean. You can experience the whole world in that city. 

The other thing I learned in Brooklyn, or grew to appreciate at an even greater level, was just how incredible the food is in Walla Walla. Restaurants absolutely. And it all starts in the dirt, in the soil, in the farmers, in the laborers that are growing such incredible product. You see that in the wine and you can taste that all across the Valley. At Brasserie, even though I was cooking these really tried and true classic French dishes, what I think made them special here was that I was using local ingredients. So at Foodscape we are bringing in direct import, hundreds of spices from all over the world, and other things you can’t get here: olive oil, seafood, and vinegar. All the things you need to build a plate, married with what you can already find in the valley. Giving people the tools that they need to cook any cuisine under the sun. 

R: For those of us in Walla Walla, we’re fortunate, you publish a weekly email with special order seafood, really incredible meals that are made for takeout especially now that is very handy, and a ton of really swoon-worthy specialty items to splurge on while we are in the shop.  How best can those visiting Walla Walla, say this summer for the weekend, enjoy what you are doing there? 

H: Well, you can come in and shop on Colville, or you are welcome to check out our store online. We will be offering lots and lots of kits that will be perhaps essential to your visit in the valley, to fill in the blanks between wine tours and great restaurant experiences. So if you’ve rented a house and are looking for some things to throw on the barbecue, we will supply you with the fish or protein. Some sauces to pair. You need salad, we will have all the greens grown in the Valley, plus a vinaigrette we are making in house. Some cheese; there will be Monteille cheese that is made in Dayton; charcuterie, those sorts of things; a snack before dinner; something to wake up with to enjoy. 

R: Lunch to take with you when you visit wineries, because that can sometimes be sparse the further out you get. 

H: Picnic Essentials. 

R: Tell us the future and vision for Foodscape. What is in the works? Where you see this going? I know education is really important to you. 

H: Beyond highlighting what the valley has to offer, we are trying to give everyone the tools they need to succeed in their home kitchens. So as I spoke about, that will be the spices and the pantry stock items. As the country opens up we will be doing a lot of teaching and cooking courses both online and in the shop. You can sign up to our weekly offerings for courses on Fish 101, buerre blanc, steak tartar, profiteroles, etc. 

R: Those are dangerous! I don’t need to know how to make those. [more laughter]

H: No, no, no! We want to highlight techniques that represent various cultures, that are representative of various cultures in the valley. So you know I have a women working with me, that has worked with me for years, and she is an incredible Mexican cook. She will be teaching how to make salsas, and sauces and different things in that realm. Ilse Edwards is an incredible tree fruit grower in the valley. She comes from Austria, so she will be giving a course on strudel etc. I hope to fill the calendar with these experts of home cooking - family cooking representative of all cultures. 

R: Those things that are just on the periphery of what we normally cook on a daily basis at home ourselves? 

H: Yeah we all get into our own ruts. So we just need a little inspiration. 

R: On that note you graciously agreed to spoil our wine club members with a tailor-made meal kit, which they will be able to pre order, and then virtually cook right along with you.  They don’t even know about this yet, I am totally letting the cat out of the bag, but we are really excited for this! Do you know what’s on the menu yet?  

H: Awh! Absolutely. So we will be sending this kit out in early April. The menu will be up online next week. What are we gonna do? In April, the sun is going to be out, there is a teeny chance we will have green onions and asparagus. There will be greens from Hayshaker farms, Frog Hollow I’m sure; various farmers in the valley. We also have this incredible cultivated mushroom grower here. So you’ll see a menu posted soon. I’m working on whats there. Halibut season kicks off March 6th, so thats something to think about. I don’t know yet.

R: I am cool with all of that.  We are releasing a new Syrah and our Cabernet Franc so you know, and there could be some great pairing opportunities there.  We really want you to stretch our culinary abilities with this, so keep that in mind too.  

Note: we then discussed many possibilities which we are going to leave a surprise!  Keep an eye your email for more on this and to participate.

R: Hannah, Thank you so much for telling us about Foodscape and bringing along all of these awesome meats and cheeses.

H: You betcha!

We will be publishing the menu soon and virtually cooking along with all of you on April 17th. 


This event is an exclusive opportunity for members of our AERIALS Series Wine Club Membership, with an invitation going out via email.  You must be a member to participate.  If you are not yet a member, we’d love to have you.  To learn more about membership and to join, visit https://www.revelryvintners.com/membership.

If you want to get your hands on some of the delicious offerings at Foodscape here in Walla Walla, check them out online at https://www.foodscapeww.com/



Jared Burns
Last-Minute Valentine's Day Round-up
IMG-3866.jpg

Valentine’s Day is less than a week away and though the date never changes, it snuck up on us! We found ourselves scrambling for last minute ways to celebrate. Turns out, there are a few necessary items to make the occasion memorable: a bouquet of flowers, a charcuterie board, a bottle of champagne and a speciality dessert. We rounded up all of our favorite shops here in the Pacific Northwest that specialize in these items in hopes of making your last-minute Valentine’s Day preparation seamless. 


A Handcrafted Bouquet of Flowers

Farmgirl Flowers, delivers nationwide on the weekdays via UPS. 

If you jump on it they may just make you a hero in time for Valentine’s day. 

Photo from Farmgirl Flowers.

Photo from Farmgirl Flowers.

Photo from DeLaurenti.

Photo from DeLaurenti.

A Charcuterie Board

Seattle: DeLaurenti, offers pickup and delivery via Fedex

Portland: Elephants Delicatessens 

Walla Walla: Foodscape Walla Walla, the best place to get the impossible to find. 

If you happen to be located outside the Pacific Northwest, Whole Foods Market is always a great option to find all the ingredients needed to make a beautiful charcuterie. 

Photo from Macrina Bakery.

Photo from Macrina Bakery.

A Speciality Dessert

Seattle: Macrina Bakery 

Portland: Petunia’s Pies and Pastries 

Walla Walla: Colville Patisserie or Walla Walla Bread Company  

Things We LikeJared Burns
81 Days in Walla Walla: Fires, A Pandemic, and Miles Away from Home

A New York City Somm’s Journey Through the 2020 Harvest

Original posted by ‘alcoholprofessor.com’, Jan. 29, 2021

Preface: We first met Andrew at Corkbuzz in New York City two years ago. In 2020 he signed up to join us on our harvest crew. Below is his first had account of that experience - a season that held a few “firsts” for us all.

Smoky skies. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

Smoky skies. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

Masked-up punch-downs, small-town life, and commuting through smoke were not part of my initial 2020 vision. However, each of these ingredients made up the interesting stew that was my first harvest, and getting comfortable with being uncomfortable was one of the many lessons. 

Walla Walla. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

Walla Walla. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

Located in southeastern Washington State, Walla Walla is a town of roughly 60,000 people with viticulture being one of the main industries. Here, a glass of wine is served side-by-side with classic American charm. In fact, in 2011 it was named “Friendliest Small Town in America” by Rand McNally. Also, in 2020 Walla Walla Valley was recognized as the “Best Wine Region” by USA Today Readers’ Choice. Grosgrain Vineyards’ winemaker Matt Austin and his wife Kelly moved to Walla Walla after living in Los Angeles and Seattle and fell in love with it immediately.  “Walla Walla is pretty isolated from any major cities, which has allowed it to maintain an unspoiled and laid back character that is refreshing and hard to find these days,” says Austin.  

Grosgrain is known for approachable wines that use grapes such as the Italian darlings aglianico and nebbiolo, which are rare in the valley. 

Italian immigrants settled the valley in the mid-19th century and began grape growing on its distinctive loess and basalt soils. The Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area was established in 1984 and today has over 100 wineries that each add their own allure to the region. Cabernet sauvignon is king here with chardonnay, malbec, and merlot also holding court. Tempranillo and grenache also sprout up in the semi-arid region, which receives only 20 inches on average of rain per year.

REROUTED

In New York (before my journey out west came about) my plate was full yet I was hungry. While busy working and studying full-time, there was still one experience I craved: to make wine. A harvest job at Vina Vik Winery in Chile was scheduled for April, but the COVID-19 pandemic sunk its fangs into the world and rerouted my final destination to my couch. At least there was wine to drink.  After months of contemplating life, redecorating, and baking (yes, I tried sourdough, too) I desperately needed to escape New York City and be inspired again. An opportunity in Walla Walla as a harvest intern arose and since I had nothing else to do (except bake for Instagram) I quickly accepted. 

Jared and Kristina Burns Revelry

Jared and Kristina Burns Revelry

Jared Burns, winemaker, and owner at Revelry Vintners began his winery in 2005 with the goal to showcase that Walla Walla could compete on the world stage of fine wine.  At Revelry, wines are crafted with precision and are sourced from iconic vineyards including Dionysius Vineyard, which has some of the oldest vines in Washington State.  “...Recently our AERIALS Series ‘D11’ Cabernet Sauvignon set a record at auction with the highest price ever paid for a Washington State wine when a case sold for $105,000.  It’s a record that rivals any record set prior in the US. That is a testament to everyone making wine here in our state.  As much as we work to put our name near the top of the list, we equally so are still doing everything we are able to bring the attention to our region that it very much deserves,” Burns says.  The pressure was on. I wasn’t 100% sure if I’d be successful at harvest, live miles away from home (2,724 to be exact), but I committed to the full 10 weeks.

FIRES AND SMOKE

Fast-forward to my September arrival in Walla Walla, and after finding a bike capable of the daily 12-mile round trip to work along with my negative COVID test, I was ready. But in true 2020 fashion, the next week brought the possibility that Walla Walla’s harvest could go up in flames, which would send me back to New York. The year and I were no longer in a friendly competition, it had its game face on.

Matt and Kelly Austin Grosgrain

Matt and Kelly Austin Grosgrain

The wildfires and smoke engulfing California and Oregon’s wine regions soon pounced into Washington State and dangerously close to Walla Walla. By mid-September, fire and smoke crawled into every nook and cranny in Eastern Washington upending farming communities, livelihoods, and claiming lives. Thoughts quickly turned to vineyard health and had winemakers readjusting their techniques and doing some extensive testing. “The smoke did impact my decision making this year and I was inclined to press our red grapes earlier and to keep press wine separate, which I don't always do,” says Austin. “I'm really happy with the wines at this early stage and it will be a fascinating vintage to follow.”

Thankfully, Walla Walla was only briefly blanketed by smoke and harvest was able to continue. However, some negative effects down the road are still possible. “The long term impacts are not yet totally known.  We did a pretty exhaustive analysis of each site and variety that we work with prior to harvest, both with sensory and scientific means.  We felt pretty confident after all was said and done that our sites were likely not impacted.  Now that our wines are nearly malolactic fermentation complete we will be submitting another round of samples to the lab for analysis.  That should be pretty interesting data to compare with what we already have.  It certainly was a wild time here during that smoke event.  It was totally uncharted waters, “ Burns said.

 

IT’S GO TIME

Revelry Harvest

Revelry Harvest

After the smoke cleared we prepared for the arrival of fruit. Harvest is not glamorous, as I was warned. But, I adapted quickly to my new role as a sommelier turned winemaking student. My newly acquired resume skills included rolling and unrolling hoses, identifying friendly critters from the unfriendly ones, and running on adrenaline while constantly sunburned. The cleaning of Macro bins (and learning the power washer) was an art that I mastered, eventually. The city boy was trying. 

Chardonnay grapes. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

Chardonnay grapes. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

The arrival of the first fruit was thrilling. It was time to make wine here and now. Chardonnay gyrated down the vibrating sorting table where focus, timeliness, and playing nice with bees were essential. Only the pristine bunches were destined to become wine and the unsavory clusters had to be pulled and discarded.  The grapes were the star of the show and didn’t let us forget. At the start, unexpected days off were common but October saw us switching into full throttle. Syrah, cabernet and some voluptuous grenache each had their turn enchanting us as they made their debut. Their intoxicating charm soon made me forget the aching in my limbs. 

Early mornings melted into long nights. Exhaustion and lingering doubt fueled an urge to give up. Opening high-end bottles and pairing courses were distant memories. I missed New York and wondered how out-of-my-mind my new west coast friends thought I might be. But, daily homemade dinners (The Burns Family also cooks) and refreshing Coors Lights made me more at ease. I can do this. Also, a few beers, laughs, and a full stomach could amplify anyone’s confidence.  

Punch down. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

Punch down. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

The last fruit eventually arrived and the end was near. The cellar was full of excitement and anticipation. Chatty erments greeted me each morning. The abrasive sounds of pump-overs made sure we were all still awake. The smells of freshly steamed French oak decorated the air as the sun left us. Harvest was dwindling down and soon my last day was here. I did it. I was part of the 2020 vintage. 

On my miles-long journey to and from the winery each day, many thoughts arose that defined my experience. Small towns rejuvenate. Defeat is only inevitable if you let it be. Comfort zones are just that -  comfortable. Cleaning with a power washer is very therapeutic. There’s a lot of hard work (and patience) that’s behind making an excellent bottle of wine. And life has a funny way of giving you what you need.  

Wines to try from Walla Walla

Revelry Vintners Connor Lee Chardonnay 2019- ($42)

Old vine chardonnay and new world elegance combine to make all 750 milliliters of this wine elegant and electric. Stone fruit aromas sing in harmony with roundness from lees contact. Great for sunny days and soft cheeses.

Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick  Red Blend - ($60)

Spring Valley keeps it all in the family with their wines. Each wine is named after a member of the Corkrum family, who settled in Walla Walla in the 1800s. Frederick , named after one of the Corkrum sons, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and malbec finished off with a kiss of French oak. 

Elephant Seven River Rock Vineyard Syrah 2018 - ($42)

This meaty syrah comes from just over the Oregon border in The Rocks of Milton-Freewater AVA, a sub-region of the larger Walla Walla Valley AVA. The area is known for its ancient basalt soils that give the grapes a distinct minerality. 

Grosgrain French Creek Grenache 2019 - ($36)

Light, fun, and fresh is the name of the game here. Soft tannin, strawberries, and a hint of garrigue make this a perfect warm-weather red. 

Gramercy Cellars Viognier - 2019 ($28)

This vivacious viognier stems from the larger Columbia Valley AVA but made into a delicious representation of the often looked over grape right off Walla Walla’s downtown. 

 Mark Ryan Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 - ($95)

Mark Ryan’s wines are a must-have. There’s no concern to be lonely with this burly bottle of Red Mountain cabernet, especially when enjoyed in their tasting room right smack dab in downtown Walla Walla. 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Andrew McFetridge

Andrew McFetridge is an NYC-based Certified Sommelier, Spanish and French Wine Scholar, and self-described wine nerd. Andrew graduated from The University of North Florida where he received a Bachelor's Degree in Journalism. Andrew is also an ambassador for DO Cava and has had his writing featured in SommJournal Magazine. He enjoys music, world travel, sending postcards, and brand new notebooks.

ExperienceJared Burns
INTO THE MOUNTAINS VOL. 1

March 16th, 2020 marked the beginning of the first quarantine, and a stay-home-order here in Washington State due to COVID-19.  I will never forget that date.  It may have been 10 days, maybe a full two weeks later - this date I can’t recall - when it occurred to me that quarantining and literally staying at home, are two very different things.  That day Kristina, our two boys and I loaded up the dogs and headed for the mountains for a hike, fresh air, and surroundings that were not our living room, kitchen or backyard.  As much as those spaces generally offer comfort and good feelings, the walls were beginning to close in.  That day outside changed everything.

There is so much opportunity to get outside, and just as many to enjoy food and wine while you are at it, or Aprés if thats more your speed.  Recently we hit the road, skipping our local mountain, opting instead for one of the best small town ski resorts in the Northwest, Anthony Lakes.  Known for some of the best snow in the west, and great terrain, what really sets the place apart is the incredible local vibe.  We’ve been skiing Anthony Lakes for years, and every time we go the parking lot is loaded with RVs and campers.  Camping out at the mountain is something we have always wanted to do, so we pulled the trigger on a whim.  For three days we “boondocked” it in the parking lot.  We skied, we ate and we drank on rotation.  Never was the tradition of Aprés observed.  Never did we break our “Covid-Bubble”.  When the lift lines were busy, we fired up the grill and cooked, or hit the far less-busy rope tow with the kids.  When lift lines thinned out in the afternoon, we skied as many laps as we could before the resort closed.  

Modern campers have all of the amenities to make camping even in the coldest weather comfortable.  Even still, we tried to rough it as much as possible and cooked all of our meals outside over charcoal.   The highlights were grilled pizzas for the kids,  fondue of Fontina cheese and Thyme, and the ultimate one skillet brunch - Shakshouka.  

(Our tip: many good dough recipes work equally well as fresh grilled pita as they do for pizza crust; for the Shakshouka, toss in artichoke hearts and small pimento stuffed green olives to add brightness and boost the wine pairing factor).

We especially like white wines and Rosé in colder temperatures.  Red wines tend to shut down and tighten up when the mercury drops, whereas chilled white wines are perfectly in their element.  They also tend to be lower ABV.  The Columbia Valley Rosé, RANGE Grenache Blanc, and Conner Lee Chardonnay were the most opened bottles of the weekend. 

Consider skipping the big resort next time you head out to hit the slopes, especially if avoiding crowds is a priority.  There are so many charming small hills throughout the country to checkout, and especially here in the Northwest.  If you don’t have a camper, there are often incredible cabin rental opportunities near ski areas.  It may not be the vacation to Hawaii you were planning, but then again, experiencing something new is sort of the point.  Get out there and break new ground, and enjoy a bottle of wine in a wild place.  Send us a picture!

Writing and photography and wine by Jared Burns. Food by Jesse Kleban.

RESOURCES


ExperienceJared Burns